Hinde Quarters

Join Mr Londoner to explore the only wooden galleon docked on the River Thames.

Bitts, dead-eyes, mizzens, poops… the list goes on. To traverse the mighty wooden decks of The Golden Hinde, a recreation of a 16th Century Tudor galleon, is to travel back in time through Britain’s seafaring as well as its linguistic past.

And this is the perfect opportunity to update your maritime knowledge. Immerse yourself in a vivid living history as this glorious vessel prepares for its 2026 celebrations, marking its 30th year at London’s St Mary Overie Dock, in Bankside.

The Bankside neighbourhood is itself a thriving cultural hub. Famous for its food, drink and arts, this district on the south side of the River Thames, celebrates a colourful, if chaotic, local back-story. Visitors flock to this former working-class, but now gentrified, quarter to sample the gourmet delights of Borough Market or to explore the cutting-edge art of the Tate Modern. This former power station commands stunning river views across to St Paul’s Cathedral.

Reconstruction
Next door to the Tate Modern is the equally-celebrated Shakespeare’s Globe – itself a remake of the Bard’s famous playhouse. Both reconstructions (theatre and galleon) extol the living spirit and boldness of the Elizabethan age – a period of massive growth, exploration, scientific discovery and an explosion of art and culture. Both Hinde and Globe have now outlived their Tudor originals. The benefit of both venues being lovingly-crafted reconstructions allows each of them to be used and enjoyed. They can be re-interpreted in a way that would not be possible were they precious and fragile survivors from the 16th Century. It’s in this way that their true spirit can live on.

The whole world in his hands. Sir Frances Drake by an Unknown artist, National Portrait Gallery, circa 1581. Photograph @meetmrlondoner 

The original Golden Hinde was captained by Sir Francis Drake. From a modest west country background, Drake became a famous privateer – a seafarer for hire: a state-endorsed half pirate, half naval officer. Licensed by Queen Elizabeth I, Sir Francis circumnavigated the globe between 1577 and 1580, pillaging Spanish ships under a commission of war. The Pelican, as she was originally know, was re-named mid-voyage, in 1578, in honour of her patron Sir Christopher Hatton. Hatton’s crest was a golden hind (a female red deer). London’s jewellery district, Hatton Garden, was his former estate and is named after him. The association with gold and jewellery is highly appropriate. Hatton’s investment proved a profitable one: Drake’s galleon returned home with a vast and impressive booty of looted and high-value Spanish treasure.

The Golden Hinde (a female red dear) was the symbol of Sir Christopher Hatton @meetmrlondoner

The Dragon
So successful were Drake’s raids, that his massive haul boosted royal coffers beyond all expectation. This also earned the triumphant Sir Francis his knighthood, awarded on the deck of his ship on 4 April 1581. The, by now, legendary privateer was nicknamed ‘El Draque’ (The Dragon) by his Spanish foes, whom he filled with terror.

In 1588, King Phillip II of Spain assembled the Armada, the doomed seaborne invasion of England. Historians believe it was launched to avenge Drake’s raiding of the Spanish fleet. The Armada’s defeat, spearheaded by the then Vice Admiral Drake, confirmed the victorious Sir Francis his place in history. Queen Elizabeth I enlisted Drake for another voyage against England’s Spanish foes in the West Indies. This time it ended in failure. Drake died off the coast of Panama in 1596 and was buried at sea.

The current Golden Hinde is a faithful reconstruction of Drake’s galleon, crafted using traditional techniques in Appledore, in Devon, on England’s west coast. She was launched in 1973 and has, like the original, circumnavigated the globe. Since her 1996 arrival in Bankside, this beautiful historic vessel has served as a living history museum – telling the surprising stories of the diverse crews who sailed her.

Today, having completed her own adventures on the high seas, the ship serves as a popular venue for live music. Sea shanty nights are especially popular. Couples have been married on the galleon’s decks – surely one of London’s most surprising wedding venues. There have been talks, demonstrations, films and presentations. This noble vessel has even served as an escape room.

All hands on deck. The ships’ crew comprise highly-skilled men and women. Image courtesy of The Golden Hinde

Rare skills
But the years have taken their toll. The Hinde’s wooden planking, decks, hull, rudder and interior are currently subject to a major programme of restoration, using age-old techniques. This is tough physical work conducted in all weathers. The ship’s restorers are all young and creative men and women, with a wealth of rare skills and specialisms.

The 30th anniversary of The Golden Hinde’s arrival in Bankside is truly one to celebrate. The beautiful galleon remains a much-loved attraction and enjoys pride of place within a lively and ever-changing creative neighbourhood.

 

About the Author

Mr Londoner is Antony Robbins, broadcaster, writer and Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts. You can find Mr Londoner on Instagram @meetmrlondoner and here.