Discovering the Tudor Heart of ‘Hamnet’ in Herefordshire

The release of the film adaptation of Maggie O’Farrell’s book Hamnet has sparked renewed interest in William Shakespeare and his life. Stratford-upon-Avon, the Warwickshire town of his birth and where he spent much of his life when not in London, has always been a popular destination. Visitors wishing to see Shakespeare’s birthplace and Anne Hathaway’s Cottage come from all over the world. While in Stratford, you can also visit Holy Trinity Church, where you can see William Shakespeare’s grave. The schoolroom where he was educated as a boy can also be visited. On the banks of the River Avon is the RSC Theatre, where visitors can experience a Shakespeare play.

However, eagle-eyed viewers might notice something: Hamnet was not filmed in Stratford. To capture the raw, rustic aesthetic of the 1500s, the production headed sixty miles west to the county of Herefordshire.

The village of Weobley. Copyright Philip Halling

The “Time Capsule” Villages: Filming in Weobley

Weobley is one of several villages in rural Herefordshire where time has almost stood still. These villages were prosperous in medieval times, their wealth stemming from trade and the markets that were established here. Both local traders and farmers, along with many from over the nearby Welsh border, brought their produce to these villages to sell. Changes in the local economy and a decline in trade after the 16th century resulted in people being unable to afford to demolish their homes and replace them with newer houses in later centuries. Consequently, most buildings date between 1425 and 1525, providing the perfect “ready-made” set for a Tudor-era drama.

Pembridge Bell Tower. Copyright Philip Halling

Beyond the Set: The Black and White Trail

In Herefordshire, there is a popular Black and White Trail, a circular route which passes through several of these picturesque villages. The tour includes Weobley and other villages such as Pembridge and Eardisland. There are also several historic churches; Weobley church has a tower topped with a tall spire which, at 185 feet, is the second tallest in Herefordshire. Inside, there is a monument with a standing effigy of Col John Birch, a colonel in the Parliamentarian army during the English Civil War.

Another church on the trail is at Pembridge. Here, you will find a rare detached wooden bell tower which dates from the early 13th century; it is reminiscent of the stave churches of Norway. Evidence from the English Civil War can be seen here: look closely and you will see musket ball holes in one of the doors of Pembridge church. Another nearby church worth visiting is that of Shobdon, which was rebuilt in the mid-18th century for the 2nd Viscount Bateman. The interior is unusual. Simon Jenkins, in his book England’s Thousand Best Churches, considers the interior “a complete masterpiece [of] English Rococo”. Entering the church has been likened to walking into a wedding cake.

The 12th-century font in St Mary Magdalene’s Church, Eardisley. Copyright Philip Halling

No pilgrimage to this filming region is complete without a stop in the historically significant county of Herefordshire. After the Norman Conquest, it became an important border county, with Wales just over the boundary. Consequently, it had one of the highest densities of castles, though little remains of most today other than earthworks and a few fragments of masonry. Another village on the Black and White Trail is Eardisley. In the church, there is a font with remarkable carvings; the font is mid-12th century and a fine example of the Herefordshire School of Carving.

The statue of Sir Edward Elgar at Hereford Cathedral. Copyright Philip Halling

The Heart of the County: Hereford City

The city of Hereford, at the heart of this county, is also worth visiting. It has a fine cathedral, the building of which began after the Norman Conquest in the late 11th century. The cathedral holds the world’s largest Chained Library, containing around 1,500 books. This can be visited, and is also where the famous Mappa Mundi is on display—a medieval map of the world dating from the end of the 13th century. In more recent times, the composer Sir Edward Elgar lived in Hereford for a number of years, and there is a fine statue of him resting against his bicycle, gazing at the cathedral.

Whether you are drawn by the haunting story of Shakespeare’s son or the architectural beauty of this region, the journey from Stratford to the black-and-white villages of Herefordshire offers the ultimate “Shakespearean” road trip.

Featured image: The village of Weobley. Copyright Philip Pankhurst

 

About the Author

Phil Halling is Heart of England Blue Badge Guide. Born in Gloucestershire, Philip grew up on a working farm in the north of the county. He has worked in the photographic industry and as a tutor in further education. After early retirement, he retrained as a Blue Badge Tourist Guide and now enjoys sharing his knowledge gained through his years of exploring the region. Although widely travelled around the world, he has lived in the counties of Gloucestershire and Worcestershire all his life. For more information about Philip and his work please CLICK HERE