A melodious journey into legend


On a recent tour of Durham with a group French visitors, with an interest in musical traditions, North East England and Yorkshire Blue Badge Tourist Guide, Christine Goodwin, not only recounted the captivating legend of Jimmy Allen, she also brought it to life with the soulful strains of the Northumbrian pipes!

Imagine, if you will, the Western end of Elvet Bridge back in 1634. Not quite the bustling scene it is today. Nestled there stood a rather grim establishment: a Bridewell, or as we more commonly know it, a House of Correction. Picture this: magistrates and the turnkey on the ground floor, and then, the cells. The lowest ones, tucked right under the bridge’s arch, were as damp, dark, and downright unhealthy as you can imagine. Not exactly a five-star stay, even by 17th-century standards!

Fast forward to today, and that very same building has undergone a transformation. It’s now a hugely popular pub and nightclub known as ‘Jimmy Allen’s’. But who exactly was this Jimmy Allen, you ask? Let me tell you, his story is as captivating as a perfectly played pipe tune.

The Man with the Golden Pipes (and a Bit of a Wild Streak)

Born somewhere in the wild, untamed beauty of Northumberland in the 1720s, Jimmy Allen was a true legend. Hailing from a family of border gypsies, he wasn’t just any piper; he was Northumberland’s most talented. His melodious tunes even captivated high society in London, thanks to the patronage of the Duchess of Northumberland herself. He earned the moniker ‘the man with the golden pipes’, and for good reason. But Jimmy wasn’t just a musical maestro; he was also a bit of a rogue, a charming adventurer who certainly knew how to live life to the fullest.

Sadly, Jimmy’s adventurous spirit led him down a tricky path. In 1803, he found himself arrested in Gateshead for horse-stealing. This landed him in the very House of Correction in Durham for seven long years, awaiting transportation. The Duchess, along with a chorus of other supporters, tirelessly petitioned King George III for a pardon. And their efforts paid off – it helps to have friends in high places. Jimmy was eventually pardoned by the Prince Regent.

But here’s where the story takes a bittersweet turn. The official documents arrived a mere four days after Jimmy Allen’s death in prison at the age of 70 in 1810. Perhaps that’s why, to this day, the nightclub is reputed to be haunted by the ghostly, melancholic sounds of the Northumbrian pipes. Spooky!

A Tune for a Legend

Jimmy Allen’s legacy lives on, not just in the buzzing nightclub, but in the very fabric of Northumbrian music. Among the hundreds of Northumbrian and Border pipe tunes that tell tales of our region, there’s a special one specifically to commemorate this remarkable gypsy piper, aptly named ‘Jimmy Allen’.

And speaking of pipes and places, on a recent spring tour of the absolutely fabulous Durham City, with its iconic Castle and Cathedral, I just had to bring my Northumbrian pipes along. What better place to play the ‘Jimmy Allen’ tune than right by Elvet Bridge, where so much of his story unfolded? My guests from France, who were particularly fascinated by our rich musical traditions, were utterly delighted. In fact, one of them, a journalist, has recently published an article in the magazine Échappées Belles about her tour of Yorkshire, Durham, Newcastle and Northumberland. And yes, my photo, pipes in hand, made it into the piece. Talk about a full-circle moment!

And just in case you’re wondering whether Northumbrian pipes are the same as Scotland’s Great Highland Bagpipes, they are not. The most immediate difference lies in their sound and volume: Northumbrian smallpipes are, as their name suggests, much quieter and more mellow, making them ideal for indoor playing and accompanying other acoustic instruments. This is largely due to their bellows-blown air supply (operated by the arm) and their cylindrical bore chanter, which also features a closed end. This closed end allows for a characteristic staccato playing style, where notes can be stopped cleanly. In contrast, the Great Highland Bagpipes are mouth-blown, creating a much louder, more strident sound suitable for outdoor performances and marching bands – and let’s not forget the Highland Bagpipes were an integral part of Scottish military tactics and morale boosting during battle. Their conical bore chanter has an open end, meaning notes are sustained, and articulation is achieved through complex “embellishments” or grace notes. Furthermore, while Scottish pipes typically have a limited nine-note range, Northumbrian pipes often feature keys on their chanter, extending their range to two octaves and allowing for more chromatic possibilities.

So, next time you’re in Durham, whether you’re popping into Jimmy Allen’s for a pint or simply strolling across Elvet Bridge, take a moment to reflect on the fascinating history etched into those ancient stones. And who knows, you might just hear a faint, ghostly tune on the breeze.

 

About the Author

Christine Goodwin, is a North East England and Yorkshire Blue Badge Tourist Guide with expert knowledge of local history, legends, folklore, characters, food, drink, and music. Whether you’re exploring solo, with family, or in a group, she offers captivating walking, coach, and site tours, including UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Hadrian’s Wall, Durham Cathedral, Fountains Abbey and  Studley Royal, to name but a few. Harry Potter fans can also discover magical locations such as Durham Cathedral, Alnwick Castle, and Goathland near Whitby. Meet Christine here